On this January morning, he is here to surf the local “slab” — not so much a normal ocean wave as a sudden, violent tear in the fabric of the ocean.
Veteran surfers grimace at the very sight of its disfigured shape. When it rolls out of the deep, it does not rise, but sucks all the water up in its path. The result is not a wall with a front and back, but a hole. The great volume of the North Pacific masses up behind the sub-sea ledge — and then slams shut.
They also deliberately waited for a massive chuck to fall off a glacier then surfed the wave from that too.